THE PALM GROVE AT ELCHE

A few new images taken in the palm groves of Elche, Alicante. This place is very special and a little slice of North Africa in Spain. The only place in Europe where dates are still harvested using traditional methods…

New B&W images from Seville's April Fair

I’ve finally got around to mixing up some chemicals and processing some rolls of film from Seville last year. It was nice to be back in the darkroom and I’m pretty pleased with the results. All images were shot of Ilford HP5 at 1600ISO with no flash…

Adiós 2018

What a great year it’s been on the Sorolla project. The first third was taken up writing scripts, organising filming permits and arranging interviews for a week-long shoot for a work-in-progress Documentary down in Sevilla during the incredible April Fair. I was joined by an amazing team and many thanks go to Phil, Jack G, Jack K, James and Tom for making things a reality - I can’t think of a better bunch of guys to work with. The rest of the year was all about translating interviews, editing shots, recording voice-overs and putting together a showreel teaser and sequence. Now begins the hard work of generating some interest and getting the full doc made which will hopefully in 2019 - the centenary of the completion of Sorolla’s masterpiece, “Vision of Spain”. Watch this space…

2017; A great year for the Sorolla project

As March ticks by and the dust settles on 2017, I've finally got round to a look-back at last year. It's been over 5 years now on the Sorolla trail and 2017 was definitely the most action-packed one yet. I covered a few more thousand kilometres and crossed the country more than a couple of times! Photoshoots in Extremadura, Aragon and Castilla-la-Mancha were a highlight as well as a mad few days down in Seville for the April fair once more, hanging out with fighting bulls and the Matadors that face them. Corpus Christi in Valencia in the early summer heat was another standout and a reminder of how much I love that city. I rounded off the year in the palm groves of Elche in some extraordinary mediterranean winter light unique to this corner of Spain. Oh, I almost forgot, I also had the honor of exhibiting my photographs alongside some paintings of the great man himself over in Cáceres which attracted a few thousand visitors. Thanks to everyone you helped make things a reality. Let's hope 2018 brings many more surprises; I have a feeling it will....

Eastern Light; in the Palm Groves of Elche

Last week I made a trip across Spain to the Levante region. The light there was incredible and it was easy to see why Sorolla got so inspired to paint there. I spent a great afternoon in Elche, just outside Alicante, buried in Europe's largest palm forest. The harvesting of dates is still carried out in the region during the late Autumn and I was lucky enough to photograph a genuine Palmerero, Miguel Angel, his friend, Andres and his family. Many thanks to them for allowing me to glimpse a snapshot of their lives here.

Below is Sorolla's painting from Elche, painted during the winter of 1918/19, exactly 99 years ago. You can also see a few snaps of the shoot (B&W film photos to follow shortly...)

El Palmeral de Elche, Joaquín Sorolla 1918-19

El Palmeral de Elche, Joaquín Sorolla 1918-19

Valencia: The Market, Albufera, Virgen and more...

Some other bits and pieces that make up Sorolla's Couples on Horseback. All shots were taken during my June visit to the region.

Valencia: Corpus Christi, June 2017

In June, for the third time for this project, I crossed Spain and found myself once again in Valencia. This time it was to see the famed Corpus Christi celebrations there on the 19th.  The goal was to find some of the characters that populate Sorolla's canvas from that region. I wasn't disappointed...

Couples on Horseback, Joaquin Sorolla, 1916

Couples on Horseback, Joaquin Sorolla, 1916

ZARAGOZA: A DANCE IN THE PARK

This summer I headed to Zaragoza in the Spanish province of Aragon to photograph a traditional Jota dance for the Sorolla project. Many thanks to Juan Carlos Serrano and his group, Semblante Aragonés, for organizing what was a fantastic spectacle and experience...

La Jota, Joaquin Sorolla, 1914

Montehermoso, February&May 2017

I've made 2 visits to the rural Extremaduran town of Montehermoso this year where Sorolla got his models for his El Mercado panel set in Plasencia. Both times I've been met by extremely friendly people who have gone out of their way to help me with the project...

Ayamonte, May 2017

A return trip to the beautiful Ayamonte to photograph The Catch 3 years on from my last visit...

Sevilla Trip, May 2017: The Fería

The Fería de Abril is one of Spain's most vibrant and passionate festivals. Here is a selection of images taken both outside and inside the beating heart of this amazing spectacle...

Sevilla Trip, May 2017: The Round Up

A selection of images taken at Ganadería Miura during a Round Up of Bulls. This was a truly unique experience...

Sevilla trip, May 2017: The Bullfight

A selection of images taken in Seville's bullring, La Maestranza on the last night of the Fería.

Genesis of an idea

It had begun, like most things, with a spark and completely by accident. For reasons unknown to myself I'd fallen into a job teaching the History of Spanish Art to American students on Erasmus programmes at the University of Cantabria in Santander. Having never taught the subject before I'd had just a week to prepare the course based on a one-sided A4 sheet briefly outlining each unit and which artists to be discussed. And there he was in unit 10 "Spanish Art in the 20th century" a name I'd never heard; Joaquin Sorolla. He was listed alongside two giants in the history of art; Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso, familiar to millions whose work was known to those with even a fleeting interest in the subject but who was this third man of seemingly equal standing as these titans of art? Over the course of the following week, and after more visits to Wikipedia than I thought humanly possible, I'd cobbled together a passable syllabus and my obsession with Sorolla had begun.

This obsession was fuelled in great part by the curious discovery that he had undertaken an epic 8-year journey around Spain creating a history of the country recorded in oils entitled 'A Vision of Spain'. My imagination ran wild. As a tenuous excuse to travel around a country I loved maybe I could embark upon the same journey 100 years on? I bought a map and began earnestly marking out locations, names and dates to put things into context. This might just work as an investigation into a people and culture. How much had Spain changed in a century? Greatly, I hazarded a guess, but in many ways maybe it hadn't. I needed to find out. An idea was born and I felt destined to see it to completion.

To put things into context, 'A Vision of Spain' was born shortly after Spanish impressionist painter Joaquin Sorolla had had his first, and hugely successful, one-man exhibition in America at the Hispanic Society in New York in 1909 (a show which drew an incredible 168,000 viewers). In 1910 he met with the Society's curator, Archer Milton Huntingdon, in Paris to discuss a commission. By the spring of following year he had accepted the project and the final contract was signed in Paris a few months later on 26th November 1911. This project was to be a huge undertaking for the 48 year-old artist and would occupy the lion's share of his final decade as a painter.

Self-portrait of Sorolla from 1909

For 'A Vision of Spain' Huntingdon had envisaged a grand exposition of Spanish culture, its landscapes, traditions and its people and costumes to be exhibited in a newly, and specifically, constructed room at the Hispanic Society. They eventually decided upon a series of paintings of the provinces of Spain where Sorolla himself would select specific locations, subjects and details. Over the next 8 years the project would take over Sorolla's life as first he scouted locations and then travelled to them with all his artist's paraphernalia; no easy task in the early part of the 20th century when many villages and towns were still isolated from paved roads and train lines.

Sorolla liked to paint en plein air, surrounded by the ever changing light that would lend his paintings a real sense of place. Any given environment infusing itself inextricably within the canvas. Logistically this was a nightmare and extremely weather dependent. The paintings themselves were also enormous measuring 3.5 metres in height and up to almost 14 metres in length meaning that special easels had to be constructed to hold them. Models were hired to feature in the paintings which meant further organisational difficulties too. I would have none of these logistical difficulties as I was setting out with just a camera and a notebook but I wanted to capture this same sense of place as Sorolla had done 100 years previously and I knew it wasn't going to be all plain sailing...

On the road with Sorolla: Seville April 2013 Part 2, Fería

Seville, mid-April. After an aborted trip in March for the Easter week celebrations due to a particularly bad bout of flu I'd opted for the consolation prize of the 'Fería de abril', the city's wild and exuberant week-long party and, in its colour, vibrancy, song and dance, the complete antithesis to the somber and austere Semana Santa processions.

The location for the Fería was a vast area the size of a small town which for the other 51 weeks of the year must look a bit unloved and neglected. This week, however, was different and over the next couple of hours I was to witness an unrivalled spectacle of Andalusian opulence. It was 7pm by the time I'd crossed the lazy Gaudalquiver river and made the half hour walk across the old gypsy neighbourhood of Triana to the outskirts of the city. The heat was really soporific now and I was down to a t-shirt and wishing I'd packed some shorts.  On turning a final corner a huge gateway emblazoned with thousands of coloured light-bulbs towered above me, it was truly enormous. I stopped to load my cameras with film and take a breath, my heart racing. Then I dived in to forget myself in the deep end of the infinity pool of Spanish cultural delights.

Las Casetas

They say you can only really find out who you are by taking yourself out of your natural environment, your habitual habitat, and putting yourself amongst the exotic. It is impossible to measure yourself against familiarity, your surroundings and you are one and the same; a symbiosis brought about by years of routine. Take a sheep from his flock and stick him with a herd of cows and suddenly he realizes he's a sheep, he's different. This is something I've often thought about on my various travels around the world but never had this been more true than now.

As well as a huge fairground with rides and attractions, the Fería is made up of more than a thousand casetas, tent-like structures of about 30m2 serving as private gathering spaces for local families and businesses to eat, drink and dance. As I walked through the rows and rows of these private parties I felt a growing shame at my Anglo Saxon reservedness and an acute awareness of my inadequacies and abilities to let go and have fun. I was an outsider catching fleeting glimpses from the corner of my eye of a thousand moments I could never experience however much I desired it. It was wholeheartedly uplifting as well as a deft blow to my yearning to be part of something.

The next generation...

Men, women and children rode about on horseback, both beast and rider dressed in their traditional finery. Manzanilla or sherry was sipped from delicate, long-stemmed, glasses both on and off the horses by men in wide-brimmed Cordoban hats. Tight-fitting feminine dresses of all designs and colours were paraded around by dark-haired and impossibly beautiful women with flowers in their hair and horse-drawn carts carrying whole families trotted past on their way to meet friends. A timeless old, low light lit the scene adding an air of otherworldliness to the spectacle and I wandered blissfully around not wanting the moment to end.


On the road with Sorolla: Valencia February 2013

The kindly man behind the park warden's desk in El Palmar looked baffled at first but he had an idea of where I should be going. "The place you want is Muntanyeta del Sants" he told me authoritatively after studying the painting in great detail. "Of course the rice harvest isn't until the summer but things shouldn't look too different this time of year". He padded out to a hidden office and came back brandishing a poster-sized satellite map of the park. "Here. Follow this road for 5 km, take a left here and head up to the monastery. You can't miss it as it's the only raised bit of land for miles". I thanked him and excitedly skipped out to the car feeling like a rookie private investigator who'd just cracked the case.

I was in L'albufera. A huge expanse of shallow swamp land just south of Valencia and separated from the sea by a narrow bar of sand. I'd spent the last hour or so blindly driving around on a mission to find the location of the painting "Couples on horseback" when, having almost given up, I stumbled across a seemingly boarded up visitors centre. To my amazement the door was unlocked and, upon entering, I'd found an official from the area willing to humour me and help out with the crazy detective trail I'd embarked upon.

Valencia, Couples on Horseback, 1916

The wind whipped through the pines doing an uncanny impression of the sea I could see way off in the distance. The Levante was up and keenly caressed my face whilst a warm winter sun shone intensely on the old monastery picking out in sharp relief its corners and sides. I was here. I'd found it. The first of my Sorolla locations. The feeling of a sense of place was palpable. On this very spot my man had stood and put brush to canvas 100 years ago. What had it been like here in the early 20th century? Had it taken him long to get out here from the city?

The chirp of a Long-tailed Tit in its element high up in one of the swaying pines brought me back to the present. Valencia appeared far away to the north. Its port cranes and the recently constructed City of Arts and Sciences showing clearly against the clear sky and low mountains further up the coast. To the east, strung out like a grey serpent fallen from grace, was a single line of apartments and holiday homes, shut up for the winter and gripping to the thin spit of land that separated the Albufera from the Mediterranean like a hungry hawk clinging onto a branch. Behind me, looking south, was the dark hunched bulk of the Denia peninsula and beyond that the Costa Blanca.

Looking south towards Denia and the Costa Blanca

In Sorolla's day it would have been possible to travel down this stretch of coast passing from one idyllic fishing village to another where traditional ways of life and local customs, unchanged for centuries, continued untroubled by outside influences. Tiny communities such as Calpe, Javea and Benidorm were to see huge changes over the course of the century and an unprecedented influx of foreign and domestic tourists and second home owners. Today Benidorm, with over 41,000 hotel beds and holiday apartments, has one of Europe's highest skylines and more tower blocks than London, Madrid or Berlin.

Looking back towards the sea I could make out where the rice paddies would be in full summer growth and ready for harvest in July. The same fields that featured as a backdrop for Sorolla's "Couples on Horseback" . Apart from the low-strung line of shoreline apartments the view from up here had changed very little over the intervening century. This was reassuring. The Albufera itself was to be thanked for this; now protected as a natural park its unique environment would endure for, hopefully, another century to come. Rice as a crop was also continuing to be grown and remained a viable commercial interest. Not surprising really seeing as Spain's most famous dish, the Paella, had its Iberian origins here.

The background from Couples on Horseback in 2013

I shot a couple of films and soaked up the atmosphere letting the place seep into me. This was to be the first of many locations Sorolla would lead me, places I would probably never have found myself in if it hadn't been for this crazy project I was embarking upon. I was excited and the randomness of it all made it all the more appealing...